Good morning from Florence, from me and John Ruskin: The Sixth Morning. The Shepherd's Tower

I had intended to give the best account of it in my power; but, when at Florence, lost all time for writing that I might copy the group of the Pope and Emperor for the schools of Oxford; and the work since done by Mr. Caird has informed me of so much, and given me, in some of its suggestions, so much to think of, that I believe it will be best and most just to print at once his account of the fresco as a supplement to these essays of mine, merely indicating any points on which I have objections to raise, and so leave matters till Fors lets me see Florence once more.

John Ruskin, Mornings in Florence (1881)

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Here are a couple of other views of Giotto's tower:

 

Good morning from Florence, from me and John Ruskin: The Fifth Morning: The Strait Gate

"But lunch time is near, my friends, and you have that shopping to do, you know." - John Ruskin, Mornings in Florence (1881)

Indeed, lunch arrived yesterday and I ate mine at All'Antico Vinaio

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Good morning from Florence, from me and John Ruskin: The Fourth Morning: The Vaulted Book

"As early as may be this morning, let us look for a minute or two into the cathedral:—I was going to say, entering by one of the side doors of the aisles;—but we can't do anything else, which perhaps might not strike you unless you were thinking specially of it. There are no transept doors; and one never wanders round to the desolate front. From either of the side doors, a few paces will bring you to the middle of the nave, and to the point opposite the middle of the third arch from the west end; where you will find yourself—if well in the mid-wave—standing on a circular slab of green porphyry, which marks the former place of the grave of the bishop Zenobius. The larger inscription, on the wide circle of the floor outside of you, records the translation of his body; the smaller one round the stone at your feet—"quiescimus, domum hanc quum adimus ultimam"—is a painful truth, I suppose, to travellers like us, who never rest anywhere now, if we can help it." - John Ruskin, Mornings in Florence (1881)

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My morning shot is above ... here's the real thing:

Good morning from Florence, from me and John Ruskin: The Third Morning: Before the Soldan

"You are, therefore—instructed reader—called upon to admire a piece of art which no painter ever produced the equal of except Raphael; but it is unhappily deficient, according to Crowe, in the "mere rendering of form"; and, according to Signor Cavalcasella, "no opinion can be given as to its colour."

John Ruskin, Mornings in Florence (1881)

Since the church wasn't open yet when I went out this morning, I just give you yet another image of Santa Croce. But here are three images from Giotto's frescoes in the Bardi Chapel of Santa Croce from my visit earlier in the week, none, however, of St. Francis and the Sultan (aka Soldan).

 

Good morning Florence, from me and John Ruskin: The Second Morning: The Golden Gate

Alas, I'm going to cheat today, the picture of Santa Maria Novella here is not from my morning walk, but rather from my evening visit to the church yesterday. By way of recompense, I offer a morning shot at the end of the post.

"To-day, as early as you please, and at all events before doing anything else, let us go to Giotto's own parish-church, Santa Maria Novella. If, walking from the Strozzi Palace, you look on your right for the "Way of the Beautiful Ladies," it will take you quickly there.

Do not let anything in the way of acquaintance, sacristan, or chance sight, stop you in doing what I tell you. Walk straight up to the church, into the apse of it;—(you may let your eyes rest, as you walk, on the glow of its glass, only mind the step, half way;)—and lift the curtain; and go in behind the grand marble altar, giving anybody who follows you anything they want, to hold their tongues, or go away."

John Ruskin, Mornings in Florence (1881)

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Santa Trinta

Good morning Florence, from me and John Ruskin: The First Morning: Santa Croce

The First Morning: Santa Croce"

"Wait then for an entirely bright morning; rise with the sun, and go to Santa Croce, with a good opera-glass in your pocket, with which you shall for once, at any rate, see an opus; and, if you have time, several opera.
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Santa Croce is, somehow, the ugliest Gothic church you ever were in. Well, that is really so; and now, will you take the pains to see why?" - John Ruskin, Mornings in Florence (1881)