Four Chinatowns in four months: Seattle, Incheon, Busan, and San Francisco

International Squire, Seattle

I noted a little while ago, in "Trying to Find Chinatown" my visits in March to the Chinatowns of Incheon and Busan in South Korea. I neglected to mention then my visit earlier in the year (January) to International Square in Seattle, which is now expanded, "internationally" to more than just a Chinatown. In addition to some great sushi spots and a large Japanese market/shopping center (that, I might add included a huge Kinokuniya bookstore).

In keeping with the theme of many Chinatowns around the world -- especially those that haven't been "gentrified" (like the sad remnants of the Washington, DC Chinatown) -- there remained a bit of a sketchy (I'm thinking of Vancouver here) atmosphere.

Incheon, South Korea

So, Seattle in January, the two Korean locals in March, and then in April, a trip to San Francisco where I had to take the opportunity to stroll down Grant Avenue (I know, Stockton is more authentic, but it was later a night and the lights on Grant were brighter) and take in the sights. I stopped in a couple of the "emporia" and picked up a few things (you can always use extra chopsticks, fans, and a Buddha or two, right?) . I was pretty well stocked with tea (and Vital Leaf was closed), so I passed on over to Columbus Avenue, North Beach, and then back to my hotel.

Grant Avenue, San Francisco:

Trying to find Chinatown ... and found it, in fact two, in South Korea

Being familiar with the giant Chinatown in San Francisco and the petite Chinatown here in Washington (as well as a few others here and there, such as Vancouver, Portland and Seattle), I wasn't quite expecting to see such "American" Chinatowns in South Korea.

On a day trip to Incheon (just 28 subway stops from Seoul) I ran into my first Korean Chinatown. The Incheon Chinatown  (some better information here) was the first in Korea and still probably the largest. Lots of typical shops and bubble tea spots; it was a week day, so not all that crowded. We hung around there for a while before heading off to see some of the other sights of Incheon (the MacArthur Memorial and the boardwalk by the waterfront).

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And then, travelling south to Busan, was another Chinatown (see Busan Chinatown). A little on the more, uh, sleazy side, there were lots of shops catering to Russians (not that Russians are sleazy), just had a more "sailor port" air to the whole thing. In fact, there's even a blog post that says it's more Russiatown! Some nice artwork and a "modern" gatej (in fact a number of gates, or archways that marked the entrances from the main street), but not a place I wanted to linger in.

Yes, the hashtag for this building is, well, #

This building has the perfect name, "Hashtag" ... well maybe that's not what it is, maybe it's number?

You can find it here on Google Maps.

Notes on a few temple visits while in South Korea

I made sure to seek out various Buddhist temples while in South Korea. Though I didn't see any of the major temples, some of the "urban" pocket temples were quite interesting.

For a great account of the various temples of Korea, I recommend "Dale's Korean Temple Adventures" website.

And thanks to @Skerijayne for my primer on Buddhist temples on our trip to China.

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Temple in Namdaemun (Seoul)
Near my hotel, and visible from the window was a large temple that looked like it would be similar to one I'd seen in Taipei. On climbing a large hill, however, it was in a very urban area with no direct public access to the main hall. The entrance seemed through another doorway that, when I opened the door, rang some bells. Rather than go in, I left.

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"Happy Face" Temple (Seoul) 
On the way to Namsan Park, right alongside the road, was a tall, multi-story building with a Smiley Face on the side. Closer examination revealed it to be a small temple. Took a few photos of the gate and roof-top Buddha and then moved on.

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Mitaseonwon Temple (aka Yongdusan) and Daegaksa Temple (both Busan) 
On the sides of Yongdusan Park in Busan are two temples, Mitaseonwon and Daegaksa. Mitaseonwon was located halfway down the mountain, conveniently located at a turn of the steps/escalators that take you down from the top of the mountain. A nice medium sized temple with nice statuary and an excellent view of the surrounding area.

The nearby Daegaksa Temple is located at the foot of the mountain on a busy street (across the street, I'll add) from a beautiful Starbucks. Larger than Mitaseonwon, but with less exterior sculptural decoration.

Photos of Mitaseonwon (aka Yongdusan Temple to me at least)

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Photos of Daegaksa

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Chinatown Temple (Busan) 
Walking back from the Busan Station, took a diversion through Chinatown and ran across a small temple that was closed for the day.

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Mubongsa Temple (Miryang) The temple highlight of the trip was Mubongsa. A small temple clinging to the side of the hillside overlooking the Miryang River, Mubongsa is part of the larger historical complex of Yeongnamnu Pavilion. A perfect miniature exemplar of a Buddhist temple, Mubongsa had most of the traditional elements of Buddhist temples: One Pillar Gate to Gate of Non-Duality Four Heavenly Kings of the Temple Gates The Dharma Hall and Buddha Hall of 1,000 Buddhas The Brahma Bell and Dharma Bell.

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Though I missed the major temples that I'd hoped to see (Beomeosa Temple, Haedong Yonggungsa Temple, Jogyesa Shrine), those are waiting for the next trip!

Bosu-dong Book Alley in Busan, South Korea

Entrance to Bosu-dong

While researching things to do in Busan, I came across references to the Bosu-dong Book Alley. Luckily, it turned out to be quite near my hotel, so on the last morning there, on a visit to the shopping areas, I was able to drop in. Not quite knowing what to expect, I was amazed at how extensive as it was.

The shops were amazing, some were no larger than a large closet, but were stacked floor to ceiling, in every nook, with books of all types. There were, obviously, many in Korean, but also stacks of old National Geographics (ah, so that is where they go to die!). In one of the larger shops, the Nikdda Book Cafe, there was also a selection of vinyl LPs (again, mostly from Korea, but there were also pristine copies of the Dirty Dancing soundtrack and Debbie Gibson's Out of the Blue).

There's a nice article on Bosu-dong on the LIST Magazine website:

The Bosu-dong Book Alley, which is located in Jung-gu, Busan, is a place where a war-ravaged barren land became bountiful with books. This is a place born out of war in the course of tragic Korean history. The enclave of bookstores faithfully played the role of gratifying people’s thirst for knowledge and served a pivotal role in fostering democracy in Korea. In the 60 years since it was established, the book alley has undergone steady change. The alley has transformed itself as a prominent cultural space. It offers a striking view of both sides of the street lined with bookstores and the now famous murals alongside the steps leading to the alley, as well as many cultural events and activities. But the importance of the area as a center for used bookstores remains unchanged, which is probably the biggest reason why Bosu-dong Book Alley has long been cherished.

Yes, Virginia, there is really a Gangnam style!

Yes, the whole world is now aware of "Gangnam Style" and I have to say that South Koreans, especially those in Seoul, are rockin' the stylish fashion plate thing.

Women wear the most amazing high heels (or, alternately, bright sneakers) in nearly every local and men keep up the pace in their skinny suits and colorful sports coats.

The giant black glasses and dyed hair a general unisex look. Needless to say, I fit in perfectly and with my own version of the "Dumpy Gangnam Style" look.






A quick look at some of the Fashion Plates of South Korea: