My Lunch with Amin, or travels in Casablanca

Well, the title of this post doesn't quite scan as well as "My Dinner with Andre," but the lunch certainly, especially in the day write large, more action packed. But to step back to the beginning. My flight from Paris to Casablanca was delayed a bit. After some exploration in the airport, I decided to take the train into town instead of a cab. Having confused my train stations and tram stops, I took the train to the Gare Casa Port (instead of the more convenient to hotel, Gare Casa Voyageurs).

Still thinking that I was at the "Casa Port" steps from my hotel, I waived off the numerous proffered taxis to get the lay of the land. Looking out at the confusion of cars, donkeys, and people. I took the next taxi offered and was more rewarded in the end.


From left: Amin driving and talking; Hassan II mosque; me and Amin

The driver lead me to his red "Petite Taxi" (in Casablanca the "Grande Taxis are white Mercedes, the "petite" red Peugeots) and away we went. I sat up front and buckled up for safety and after a few blocks (and near miss with a donkey cart) congratulated myself on the choice of cab over foot.


From left: Corniche, in the Medina; Sacre Coeur

And on we drove. And drove. My driver, Amin (which, suitably, means "fair" or "trustworthy in Arabic), spoke excellent English (learned, he said, not in school but from driving English speakers) and gave highlights of our ride. As we neared the hotel, he offered me a 90 minute tour of the city's sights (a common offer I believe). I thought about it and agreed to meet out front in 30 minutes or so. He dropped me at the hotel, I checked in, did some unpacking, freshened up, and headed out wit hat and sac a dos.

Rick's Cafe, Casablanca

Our first stop was the infamous "Rick's Cafe." Made famous by the 1942 film, Casablanca, which was filmed there (or so Amin and other tour guides told me -- the movie was, of course, shot on a studio lot in Southern California!).

Meet Amin out front and we head off to the following sites:

• Hassan II Mosque, 7th largest in the world, tallest minaret, built in 1993, it is really big
• Waterfront for the poor people and lighthouse; interesting sights of people fishing and sheep wandering around
• Corniche, the waterfront for rich people; amazing Atlantic Ocean views from hotels and swimming pools
• Hassan II Square and lots of pigeons
• Sacred Heart Cathedral, built in the 1930s, used as an expo center since 1956
• Trip to the medina (aka Casbah, Souk, market, old city)

In the Medina, we visited Amin's favorite shops, including the Maison Arabe, the (as I was to learn) typical  rug store with very nice (and expensive) rugs. Bought a small wall hanging. Then, over to the oils and spices place. They have something called "argan oil" which was rubbed on me a couple of times. Bought some saffron there (probably paid too much). Drove around some more and then Amin asked if I wanted some lunch. I said yes, what do you suggest, and he said, let's go to my mother's house.


From left: dashboard; no seat belts allowed; shopping for lunch

Up stairs to lunch

He then called on the phone (all the while driving in a very hectic way, oh, and he was amused I kept putting my seat belt on, didn't see any need for that). Stopped at a street market and he bought some stuff and then we drove to another part of the old city. We parked and he shouted up to an upstairs window and some keys were thrown down. We walked up three flights of stairs and were greeted by Amin's older brother-in-law, a six year old boy and 13 year old boy. Took off our shoes and went into a room up front with a round table and cushions. Front room had a TV, bedroom off to a side and a kitchen.

Sat in the room and talked while Amin sister and niece cooked up the food; caught glimpses of them flitting by the door, but they never came in or were introduced. We talked about various things, including Obama and life in the U.S. Food came in (brought by Anis, the 13 year old). Couscous with vegetables, fava beans, chic peas, lamb, potato, carrots, etc. Very tasty. Ate from a common bowl with spoons and had a yogurt drink.


From left: lamb and vegetable couscous; Amin's family; mint tea

More talking and loud belching. Then the tea was brought in. Akhmed (the brother-in-law) finished the tea with large chunks of sugar and elaborate pouring into cups and then back into the pot. Then an dramatic serving pour from 2 feet in the air. Talked about Fes and Ifrane (the University there, where I was to have my meetings later in the week, is the Harvard of Morocco, you go there and you can do anything you want to do, or so said Amin).

Said goodbyes, put on shoes, out the door, drove back to the hotel, said bye and thanks.


From left: View out the window; stairs to Amin's; taxi cat

QotD: " If it's December 1941 in Casablanca, what time is it in New York?"

Rick: If it's December 1941 in Casablanca, what time is it in New York?

Sam: What? My watch stopped.

Rick: I'd bet they're asleep in New York. I'd bet they're asleep all over America.

Au revoir, Casablanca

Goodnight Casa, from the piano lobby bar of the Sheraton

A glass of the Medallion red with some olives, nuts, and Global BHL colleagues on the last night of a long trip.

QotD: "The most dangerous man in the world's most dangerous city! ... Where every burning moment brings a new danger ..."

"The most dangerous man in the world's most dangerous city! ... Where every burning moment brings a new danger ..." (Casablanca trailer, 1943)

Good evening from the fabulous 14th floor of the Sheraton Casablanca

After an 11 hour touristical trip from Ifrane via Meknes, Volubilus, and Rabat.

Everybody Comes to Rick's, or "Play it Sam"

So, as everybody knows that Casablanca (or as the original play was called, Everybody Comes to Rick's) was filmed on location in Morocco, er, well, maybe now. So, in honor of the great film and my visit to Casa (as we natives call it), here are some of my favorite quotes from the film:

Captain Renault: Realizing the importance of the case, my men are rounding up twice the usual number of suspects.

Ilsa: But what about us?
Rick: We'll always have Paris. We didn't have, we, we lost it until you came to Casablanca. We got it back last night.
Ilsa: When I said I would never leave you.
Rick: And you never will. But I've got a job to do, too. Where I'm going, you can't follow. What I've got to do, you can't be any part of. Ilsa, I'm no good at being noble, but it doesn't take much to see that the problems of three little people don't amount to a hill of beans in this crazy world. Someday you'll understand that.

Rick: Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the world, she walks into mine

Captain Renault: Major Strasser's been shot.
[Renault looks at Rick, Rick gives him a look]
Captain Renault: Round up the usual suspects.

Renault: What in heaven's name brought you to Casablanca?
Rick: My health. I came for the waters.
Renault: The waters? What waters? We're in the desert.
Rick: I was misinformed.

QotD: "If seven maids with seven mops swept it for half a year" Lewis Carrol on the streets of Casablanca

'If seven maids with seven mops
Swept it for half a year,
Do you suppose,' the Walrus said,
'That they could get it clear?'
- Lewis Carroll

 There is an amazing amount of sweeping that goes on in Casablanca, and yet, well, everything seems to remain rather dirty ... I know I said the same thing about Beijing a few years ago, one of the differences in Casa is that they tend to throw water on the ground first (to keep down the dust) and often use push brooms (and the maids are mostly men it seems)

Good morning Casablanca, from the fabulous 6th floor of the Novotel Casa City Center

QotD: "Of all the gin joints, in all the towns, in all the world, she walks into mine" Rick Blaine, Casablanca

For some reason, the neon artwork of the famous quote by Rick Blaine from Casablanca in the bar of the Hotel Sofitel punctuates the quote as follows (with an odd question mark):

"Of all the gin joints in all the towns in all the world? She walks into mine."

Seafood tangine, mezze and grilled eggplant

At Delight in Casablanca

Good afternoon, Casablanca ... From the Novotel Casa City Center

Lotsa construction!!